Most litter box problems are not the cat’s problem. They are setup problems, and cats are unusually direct about telling you when something is wrong with theirs.
How many boxes
The standard guidance is one box per cat plus one spare, placed in different locations rather than lined up in a row. Two boxes side by side function as one box in a cat’s judgement, which defeats the point.
Size and shape
Most boxes sold are too small. A cat should be able to turn around fully and dig without touching the sides — roughly one and a half times their body length is a reasonable target. Covered boxes are popular with owners because they contain odour, which is precisely the problem: they concentrate it inside, where the cat is. Many cats also dislike having only one exit. If you use a hood and your cat starts going elsewhere, try removing it.
Where to put it
Quiet, easy to reach, and never next to food and water — cats do not eat where they toilet. Avoid dead ends where another pet could block the exit, and avoid anywhere a washing machine might start unexpectedly. For older cats, a low entry matters more than anything else on this list; a stiff cat will find somewhere easier rather than climb.
Litter itself
Cats generally prefer fine-grained, unscented clumping litter — it is closest to what they would choose outdoors. Scented litter is made for human noses and is a common reason cats quietly relocate. If you need to change type, do it gradually by mixing, exactly as you would with food.
Depth and maintenance
- Three to five centimetres of litter — enough to dig, not so much that it feels unstable.
- Scoop at least once a day; twice is better and takes a minute.
- Top up as you go so the depth stays constant.
- Empty completely and wash the box periodically with mild unscented soap. Avoid anything ammonia-based, which smells like urine to a cat.
Odour is a removal problem, not a masking one
Air fresheners and scented litters cover smell for you and add an unpleasant layer for an animal whose nose is far more sensitive than yours. The only thing that genuinely controls litter odour is taking the waste out promptly and often. Everything else is decoration.
When a cat stops using the box
Work through the obvious causes first: is it clean, is the litter the same as it was, has anything changed nearby, is another pet involved. But going outside the box is also a classic sign of urinary problems, and in male cats straining without producing urine is a genuine emergency that needs a vet immediately, not tomorrow. Never treat a sudden change in toileting as purely behavioural until a medical cause has been excluded.
Automating it
Self-cleaning boxes solve the frequency problem, which is the hardest part to keep up with. Cats vary in how readily they accept one — introduce it alongside the existing box rather than replacing it overnight, and let your cat choose.
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